The Khujand city court in northern Tajikistan has sentenced 10 people to jail after finding them guilty of being members of the banned Islamic group Hizb ut-Tahrir.

The poems of a 10th-century minstrel and tales of extraordinary hospitality sent the author to the Soghd region

Comparing places today with the descriptions in medieval annals can be a risky business: more often than not, time has ripped most of the old details out, replacing them with something much more mundane. But as I drove through the region of Soghd in Tajikistan, it looked like little had changed. Cows ambled across the path and women balanced sacks, buckets or ceramic pots on their heads.; Along the road to the village of Panj Rud, I could still see the "running water" and "many trees" for which this region is praised by medieval geographers. I was on the trail of a blind minstrel – a 10th-century poet called Rudaki, whose verses are still recited by Tajiks today. In the city of Khujand, I'd strolled into a sugar market to see an old man, sitting among boiled sweets and bags of sugar cubes, dangling his pointy-toed shoes off a cart and plucking a traditional dotar. He was reciting a poem by Rudaki – and judging by the rapt attention he was paid, it struck the same chord as with its original audience, when the poet's mouth would be filled with gemstones by admirers.

Visiting Panj Rud, where Rudaki is buried, I scrambled up to his domed mausoleum before strolling into the village. It was his townsfellows that I really wanted to meet. Back in the 10th-century, a geographer called Ibn Hawqal praised the Soghd region for its hospitality, citing the example of a local landowner who fastened back his doors with nails to keep them open for anyone travelling through. "Strangers might arrive here at the most unseasonable hours, or in any numbers," wrote Ibn Hawqal, "for the master of the house had provided everything necessary both for the men and their beasts."

Modern-day Soghdians were clearly just as friendly: sitting under their scythes, which hung from nails sticking out of the shop wall, they beckoned me over and began questioning me about my travels. But, despite Ibn Hawqal's account, I could hardly have anticipated what happened next: a debate over who would have the duty of hosting the grubby, pasty-faced stranger.

Up a muddy track at the top of a hill, a wooden gate swung back, and two cows nodded to the side, the smell of their mud-walled byre confused by a drop-loo. A potato plantation spread out in front of me, framed by wooden stalls stacked with hay, ahead of a yard where rugs were on a washing line, along with a turban and a set of stirrups.

"The guest," exclaimed my host – the eldest of the villagers, "is a god!"

A teapot and bowls were set on a small cloth-covered table, to be followed by mint leaves and bowls of fresh yoghurt. My host lowered himself on to the carpet and produced a Cyrillic copy of a 10th-century epic poem, which he kept beside his Qur'an.

"I was like this character," he said, tapping a muddy finger on a passage about a mighty hero with an ox-headed mace. "When I was young I was strong too," he said. "That is when I built this house. But now my beard is white and my strength is ruined." He wrinkled his nose, as if age was something that really should have been avoided – and would have been, with a little more luck.

I spent most of that evening with his son. Mansur wasn't far off 50 years old, but he still treated his father with great respect.When Mansur introduced himself to me, he secretively patted his waistcoat and cast me a comradely wink. I wasn't sure what he meant, but the answer came when his father stepped outside to pray. Thrusting one arm inside his waistcoat, Mansur pulled out – with the flourish of a conjuror – a bottle of Anzob vodka. It tinkled against the bowls as he poured out the measures, and he drained his at once.

"Quick!" he whispered, throwing nervous glances through the crack in the door. When the old man shuffled back in, Mansur rolled the bottle under the table and shot me another of his winks. Vodka may not feature in the medieval accounts, but fear of a father's wrath certainly does. Even if Mansur was grey-haired himself, he clearly wasn't too old to reap a whirlwind if his father should catch him boozing.

• For visa details see tajembassy.org.uk. Air Baltic (airbaltic.com) flies from Gatwick to Dushanbe from £714 return

Nicholas Jubber is the author of Drinking Arak off an Ayatollah's Beard

$225 of $1,500 raised.

Started raising funds on Jul 12, 2010

Tutiniso has built a profitable business selling kid’s clothing at the busy central market called “Panjshanbe” in Khujand. She has done well by concentrating on a product that she is interested in and where there is not a lot of competition. Tutiniso has been in business for 15 years. She is looking forward to developing it and making it successful. Tutiniso is married and has two children. She is doing all she can to ensure the best future for them. Anorkhol has requested a loan for $1500 USD to purchase additional inventory for the summer season. Previous loans from “IMON International” have been a great help to Tutiniso. More about Tajikistan and IMON International Tajikistan is known for its rich history, which includes a key post along the Silk Road and the end of Alexander the Great's rule. It has also produced great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets, including Rudaki, Avicenna, Ferdowsi, Omar Khayyam, Jomi, and Rumi. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium BC. And, even today, it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please visit: www.imon.tj

$0 of $800 raised.

Started raising funds on Jun 24, 2010

Ergasheva Marhabo has operated a clothing sales business in the market of “Somon-bozor” in Khujand for 6 years. Enterprising and hardworking, Marhabo has succeeded in her business due to experience and a joyful spirit. With the profits of her business, she is supporting her family which consists of her husband and two children. Marhabo is currently seeking a loan of $800 to expand the range of her clothing. She wants to expand her business: an achievement that will bring a better quality of life for her family. More about Tajikistan and IMON International Tajikistan is known for its rich history, which includes being a key post along the Silk Road and marking the end of Alexander the Great's rule. It has also produced great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets, including Rudaki, Avicenna, Ferdowsi, Omar Khayyam, Jomi, and Rumi. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium BC. Even today, it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please visit: www.imon.tj

By Jahongir Boboev 

Despite widespread poverty, Tajikistan has seen a boom in mobile phones in recent years. Competition among provider firms has slashed call charges, and mobile networks get round all the difficulties of a crumbling landline infrastructure.

It therefore came as a surprise when President Imomali Rahmon announced at the end of April that mobile phones were a health risk and their overuse should be discouraged.

At an April 30 cabinet meeting, the president instructed the health ministry to inform the public – especially the younger generation – about the health risks posed by handheld phones.

A week earlier, the president had identified another drawback of mobile phone use. He said there were over a million phone owners in Tajikistan, each spending between 50 and 600 somonis a month (from 11 to 135 US dollars) on calls. That amount of money, he said, was “a drain on the financial resources of every Tajik family”.

The president’s comments sparked a series of programmes on state television highlighting the physical effects of using mobiles too much.

The next step was taken by the authorities in Dushanbe and other towns, who placed restrictions on billboard advertising by mobile companies. Many adverts were taken down within the space of a few days.

The move caused consternation, and not only among mobile providers and advertising companies.

Economist Hojimuhammad Umarov said the ban was absurd and illegal. “It violates the fundamental principle of a market economy – free competition,” he said.

“We were surprised at news of the ban on advertising mobile companies, said Kakhor Aminov, an economist at the Asian Development Bank mission in Dushanbe. “It goes against all international standards and market economic principles.”

Shodi Shabdolov, the Communist Party leader and a member of parliament, pointed out that the president never called for any kind of ban, just moderation in the use of phones.

“If a company is advertising legally, no one can prohibit or even restrict this,” he added.

Tajikistan’s liberal mobile phone market means it now has six provider companies, most of them set up with foreign investment. Russian phone companies hold majority shares in two and China has a controlling stake in another.

Competition has brought prices down and allowed technological advances – Tajikistan was the first Central Asian state to introduce 3G services.

An advertising ban, if introduced formally, would hit advertisers as much as the phone companies.

“Adverts by these companies account for a large proportion of our budget,” said Marat Mamadshoev, chief editor of the Asia Plus newspaper. “We aren’t planning to abandon this advertising – at least, not until a court rules that we cannot carry it.”

This is not the first time the authorities have tried to curb mobile phone use. In 2008, on President Rahmon’s recommendation, parliament ruled that schoolchildren and college students must not carry their phones on them during lessons.

Shokirjon Hakimov, an opposition politician and legal expert, suspects the government has a hidden agenda – to limit public access to easy communications.

“It’s no secret that the authorities are fearful of this [mobile phone] area expanding,” he said. “Suffice it to recall that the world found out about events in Kyrgyzstan [April 2010 revolt] and Iran [2009 protests] through mobile phone communications.”

For others, such regulations are merely an unwarranted intrusion into private life, similar to other decrees banning excessive spending on weddings and funerals, and forbidding teachers from having gold teeth.

“Sadly, the experience of recent years shows that the moment the president makes some critical remark on any subject, parliament or another agency immediately try to curb constitutionally guaranteed civil rights and freedoms, by amending the law or other forms of legislation,” said Faizinisso Vohidova, a human rights activist from the northern town of Khujand. “In Tajikistan, as the proverb goes, if you ask for someone’s turban, they’ll bring you his head. So the president only has to suggest using mobile phones in moderation, and the authorities immediately introduce a ban.”

Jahongir Boboev is the pseudonym of a journalist from Tajikistan.

This article was produced jointly under two IWPR projects: Building Central Asian Human Rights Protection & Education Through the Media, funded by the European Commission; and the Human Rights Reporting, Confidence Building and Conflict Information Programme, funded by the Foreign Ministry of Norway.

The contents of this article are the sole responsibility of IWPR and can in no way be taken to reflect the views of either the European Union or the Foreign Ministry of Norway.

From my neighbors’ flat in Khujand, in northern Tajikistan, we watched images of Kyrgyzstan’s coup on Russian satellite TV. One woman was sitting in her dark shop illuminated only by flashlight, weeping. The mannequins that had once displayed her goods were now nude. In the next shot, another woman swept glass from the steps of [...]

$0 of $3,000 raised.

Started raising funds on Feb 25, 2010

Farhod is married with three children. He is a market vendor from Khujand where he sells clothing for teenagers. Farhod is very enterprising, has vast experience working as a vendor and is full of creative ideas. A reasonable pricing policy and client-friendly service have always been priorities in his work and have helped to ensure the success of his business. Farhod has been running his business for many years. He has about 11 years of experience selling clothing. Currently, he is requesting a loan of $3,000 USD to increase his inventory. Farhod believes that having this additional capital will help him minimize his risk and provide stable financial support for his family. Moreover, it will help him get closer to his ultimate goal of purchasing a big store of his own. --------More about Tajikistan and IMON International----------- Tajikistan is known for its rich history, which includes being a key post along the Silk Road and marking the end of Alexander the Great's rule. It has also produced great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets, including Rudaki, Avicenna, Ferdowsi, Omar Khayyam, Jomi, and Rumi. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium BC. Even today it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please click here.

$0 of $1,500 raised.

Started raising funds on Feb 16, 2010

Ashurov Furkat is 31 years old and is not married. He is a very diligent and hard-working man who uses his car to provide taxi services. Furkat’s usual itinerary is Kanibadam-Khujand. For the last two years Furkat’s business had been the main income for the family allowing him to improve the living conditions of his large family. Currently, his daily income is about 80-100 Somoni. As any business generating income, Furkat’s business also requires some investment from time to time. Thus, now the car needs a thorough overhaul. For this reason he requests 1,500 USD. He promises to repay the loan promptly and thanks all those supporting him. More about Tajikistan and IMON International Tajikistan is known for its rich history, which includes a key post along the Silk Road and the end of Alexander the Great's rule. It has also produced great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets, including Rudaki, Avicenna, Ferdowsi, Omar Khayyam, Jomi, and Rumi. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium B.C. And, even today, it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please visit: www.imon.tj

$50 of $1,100 raised.

Started raising funds on Dec 30, 2009

Yusufjon is a hard-working entrepreneur from Khujand, Tajikistan. He is married with two children. He has operated his own business of producing wooden doors and window frames for the past six years. Yusufjon has extensive experience in this field and his skills are very much in demand. He works hard to earn a good income and support his family.

Yusufjon has requested a loan of $1100 to buy some tools that he needs for his business. Yusufjon appeals to your generosity so that he can improve his family's living conditions. More about Tajikistan and IMON International Tajikistan is perhaps best known for its rich history, which includes a key post along the Silk Road; the end of Alexander the Great's rule; and with it’s famous great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets as: Rudaki, Ibn Sina (Avicenna), Firdousi, Omar Haiyam, Jomi, Mavlavi Rumi and many others. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium BC. And, even today, it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But, Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please visit: www.imon.tj

$0 of $1,575 raised.

Started raising funds on Dec 25, 2009

Islomdjon is married and has a little son. He and his family live in Khujand, Tajikistan. Islomdjon started his own small venture after his relatives suggested he should try his luck as a market vendor. Today Islomdjon runs a small business selling women’s clothing. His vending facility has a very favorable location and offers a large assortment of merchandise, which attracts many customers. Islomdjon believes that financial support from IMON International has helped him boost his sales and grow his business. He would like a loan of 6800 Somoni to purchase inventory wholesale. Islomdjon believes this loan will help him further develop his business and get additional income to improve his family’s living standards. More about Tajikistan and IMON International Tajikistan is known for its rich history, which includes a key post along the Silk Road and the end of Alexander the Great's rule. It has also produced great thinkers, philosophers, scientists and poets, including Rudaki, Avicenna, Ferdowsi, Omar Khayyam, Jomi, and Rumi. The country is home to communities that still speak the ancient Sogdian language, epic mountain passes, and a civilization that dates back to the 4th millennium BC. And, even today, it is a complex mixture of the Islamic faith, Soviet culture, New West culture and Central Asian traditions. But Tajikistan is also the poorest of the former Soviet republics. The civil war, which ignited soon after its independence from the U.S.S.R., further damaged the already weak economy. In addition, 93% of the country is mountainous and only 7% of the land is arable. These conditions have resulted in high levels of unemployment and have forced hundreds of thousands to seek work in other countries, mainly Russia. While the people of Tajikistan are working to improve its agricultural production and manufacturing sector, nearly two-thirds of the population still live in abject poverty. IMON's History Since December 2007, IMON International has worked closely with Kiva and Kiva lenders to ensure that poor and low income clients represent a viable business proposition. Funds raised through Kiva have already been distributed to thousands of IMON International's clients and will continue to provide thousands more with permanent access to the varied financial services they need. To learn more about IMON International's work, please visit: www.imon.tj

Tajik authorities say they have detained a Chinese businessman at Khujand airport and confiscated $150,000 in undeclared money that he was carrying, RFE/RL's Tajik Service reports.